I have made my way from Portland, OR all the way back to Portland, OR. The trip is finished. During the tour I spent most of my time living in the moment, enjoying the company of others, taking in the great game of baseball, eating local specialties, and managing my travel schedule. Since the final game in Seattle I've had more time to reflect on what I believe the best ballparks in the major leagues are. It is granted that to know a stadium one must see several games (or several seasons of games) and I readily admit that there are many facets of baseball that cannot be noticed, let alone understood, in just one game. However, from the perspective of one passionate fan traveling from one field to another, I have compiled a list, ranked in order from least favorite to favorite, of all 30 ballparks I visited this summer:
30. The Coliseum (Oakland A's) - The few spectators that were there were great and they deserve a better venue than the cavernous wasteland that, whether upon first glance or a ninety-eighth, immediately disabuses the best of fans from any possible notions that resemble having fun. On the plus side, at least they play on grass.
29. Sun Life Stadium (Florida Marlins) - I'm not sure which had more spectators, the Reds/Marlins doubleheader I saw with my mom or my little league championship game (which was also a doubleheader attended by my mom). But what I can be sure of is that the pizza was better at the Anthony Wayne Pirates vs. the Anthony Wayne Dodgers. It's a good thing the Marlins are a getting new home. PS - the AW Pirates won both games and took home the championship!
28. Tropicana Field (Tampa Bay Rays) - Can someone please get the best small market team in the bigs a decent stadium? Please? Let's hold a bake sale and see what happens.
27. Turner Field (Atlanta Braves) - Alright, this might have more to do with the fans than the actual park (although your local kickball pitch is more interesting than this playing field design). Why doesn't anybody come to watch the Braves? It's not like they don't put a good product out on the field. I suggest the Cardinals made the playoffs primarily because the baseball gods intervened and decided to grant a wild card birth to a ball club that actually has people that root for it. The truth is that in an age of beautiful baseball stadiums Turner Field does nothing to excite the inner baseball romantic (nerd) in me, with or without people in the stands.
26. Rogers Centre (Toronto Blue Jays) - Does anybody remember the virtual reality craze? The Rogers Centre epitomizes that late 80's/early 90's mentality of over-tinkering and artificiality. Sure it's a nice venue, but so are most movie theaters, which is where artificial reality should have stayed. Speaking of movies, if the 1992 film The Lawnmower Man happened to be about a long reliever instead of a gardener it would have taken place here.
25. Chase Field (Arizona Diamondbacks) - It's really not a bad park, which tells you how many good ones there are out there. The outside temperature was 108 when we entered the air conditioned stadium, so I should be grateful and place it higher on the list. Sorry, no can do. My feeling is that the D-Backs would be much better off if Chase Field wasn't in such a boring neighborhood, and when I say "boring neighborhood" I mean Phoenix, AZ.
24. U.S. Cellular Field (Chicago White Sox) - Being in the same town as Wrigley Field doesn't help, but the White Sox missed the boat when they tore down old Comiskey. They should have replicated the old stadium seat by seat and bolt by bolt. Instead the home of one of baseball's most storied franchises looks like it was drawn up by an ardent symmetrist on his lunch break (I considered making my last statement gender neutral, but a woman could never think so plainly).
23. The Big A (Los Angeles Angels) - Evidence of baseball's ballpark renaissance is on display here with the grand old home of the Angels only coming in at #23. This is a good place to watch a game under the California sun. My stay felt too short as I watched ace pitchers Jared Weaver and C.J. Wilson rip through the lineups with ease. Who knew then that Wilson would be attempting more of the same in the future, donning home whites instead? The Big A is the fourth oldest stadium in majors and although there is nothing truly exceptional about its layout and design, it works as a very nice place to cheer on the best starting rotation in the American League.
22. Safeco Field (Seattle Mariners) - I'm starting to get into some pretty nice stadiums here. Unfortunately for the Seattle Mariners and their fans the spring rains necessitate a covered playing field. Although the roof is mechanized to allow for open-air baseball during summertime moments of unprecipitated bliss. Regardless of the marvel of engineering that a gargantuan retractable ceiling provides, it doesn't induce real strong aesthetic impulses in me. I'd like to say, however, that I enjoy the beer selection, the garlic fries and cheering on one of the best ever: "EE-CHEE-ROW, EE-CHEE-ROW, EE-CHEE-ROW."
21. Minute Maid Park (Houston Astros) - I loved the quirkiness of this park. There is a train high above left field as an homage to the old Union Station that once stood where the field now is; a giant Conoco gas pump that displays the total number of Astros home runs hit there; and a hill in center field that is in play 436 feet from home plate. Houston has another retractable roof stadium and the ceiling was closed at the game I saw. I'll admit that the air conditioning was a nice break from the heat. However, I still can't get past my aversion to enclosed stadiums.
20. Nationals Park (Washington Nationals) - Cozy. Fun. Green. I enjoyed looking over my shoulder at the Washington Monument and the Capitol building from my comfortable left field perch almost as much as I enjoyed the names of the concessions (Field of Greens, Steak of the Union, Senators Sausage). What those concessions offered was as tasty as it was admirable: local favorites like Ben's Chili Bowl and Dogfish Head beer (a personal fave), healthy eating choices, and even vegetarian and gluten-free options. Nationals Park was also the first ballpark to be LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certified. On top of all that I loved this park. I should probably have it higher on my list.
19. Citizens Bank Park (Philadelphia Phillies) - That's right, number 19. Come on Phillies fans, let's hear your remonstration. It's not like you're quiet, ever. And, I'll give a bonus for any Philadelphia fan that knows what the word remonstrate means. The park is a HUGE step up from old Veterans Stadium and a really nice place to watch the NL's version of the Yankees. Surrounded by endless fields of parked automobiles, Citizens Bank Park and the other two major stadiums (one for the Eagles and one for the Flyers and 76ers) occupy what is known as the South Philadelphia Sports Complex. This complex is necessary because nobody wants to actually go into Philadelphia proper if they can help it. This is mainly because the people that live there are just too friendly. Seriously, it's kind of scary.
18. Busch Stadium (St. Louis Cardinals) - The St. Louis Cardinals are arguably the most storied of National League ball clubs. It's too bad that their park isn't of the same unsurpassed caliber as their tradition. Busch Stadium, a fine place, is actually the third Cardinal park to carry the Busch name and the new one is certainly better than the one it replaced. I liked the red seats and all of the brickwork. But I've been there twice and both times it felt warmer than it should have. Maybe too much brick work? By far the best part of the stadium is the view of the downtown skyline, including the infamous arch, hovering over the outfield.
17. Comerica Park (Detroit Tigers) - The best part about Comerica is that it routinely ranks high in the stadiums with the most triples. Although Greg Maddux and Tom Glavine once told me that chicks dig the long ball, the triple is always baseball's most exciting play. The second best part is that it is situated in downtown Detroit surrounded by plenty to do. The third best part is that I once caught a foul ball there off the bat of Roberto Alomar. The worst part about Comerica is that it replaced the great Tiger Stadium. Well, maybe I should have used another word besides replaced.
16. Citi Field (New York Mets) - Undoubtedly there was a charm to the old Shea, regardless of its condition. In fact, something I heard from many fans was that Citi "just wasn't crappy enough." Don't worry, I'm sure given a few more sub .500 seasons discouraged fans will dub the place Shitty Field and start to treat it that way. I liked that it was a big pitcher's park with high walls. Too bad the team didn't. The Mets and the White Sox were the only teams to have a winning record on the road but not at home (with New York a deplorable 34-47 at Citi Field). Some nice highlights: a big pedestrian bridge in the outfield, orange foul poles, a right field porch, and the main entrance (known as the Jackie Robinson Rotunda) was beautiful.
15. The Rangers Ballpark in Arlington (Texas Rangers) - Happy Texans sing "Deep In The Heart of Texas" between innings and the ball flies around the field in the hot, summer air. It makes for an entertaining evening. The park itself is beautiful and the double-tiered outfield stands remind me of classic stadiums like Comiskey Park and Tiger Stadium. If I lived in the area I'd go to every home game. But that may be also due to a substantial lack of anything else to do there.
14. Progressive Field (Cleveland Indians) - As hard as it is to believe that the Indians will (hopefully) win a World Series again, it is even harder for me to see this wonderful little stadium come in at number 14. I suspect that enhancements by means of some dark bricks here, a couple steel beams there, a few in-house pubs called 'Hard Times' (all moves that would embody Cleveland's reputation as king of the rust belt), and going back to the name Jacobs Field would catapult Progressive Field to the rank of almost best.
13. Dodger Stadium (Los Angeles Dodgers) - Dodger stadium nestles into Chavez Ravine like the thatched home of a western meadowlark on the floor of a grass-covered, sun-drenched prairie. Okay, not quite like that, but the stadium is more beautiful if not as inconspicuous. The ballpark is surrounded by rolling green hills and tree-lined mountains. The grounds of the stadium itself are well-tended and covered in trees as well. It is the second oldest stadium in the National League and still looks remarkably modern while resting comfortably amongst the southern California hillsides, draping itself in their tranquility. Thatched home of a western meadowlark? Draping itself in their tranquility? What do they put in those Dodger dogs?
12. Target Field (Minnesota Twins) - You don't have to like the name, but you've got to love this stadium. The intimate ballpark with spectacular views of downtown Minneapolis was packed even though their team was in last place and it was a Wednesday night. I can see why. The place is fantastic and by comparison to its hideous predecessor, the Metrodome, downright spectacular.
11. Miller Park (Milwaukee Brewers) - This is the last of the retractable roof stadiums and even the casual reader should notice that I've ranked the Brewers' stadium much higher than the others. If I was making my judgments solely on aesthetics Miller Park would be down a few more notches with Safeco. But Milwaukee does something better than any other place I visited: tailgating. I've never seen anything like it. The friendliness and sociability of everyone was really welcoming. For that one charming reason Miller Park just skirts the outside edge of the top ten.
... The Top Ten ...
10. Great American Ball Park (Cincinnati Reds) - I love how this park cozies right up to the grand Ohio River. Sitting in my red seat I could easily watch the game while staying abreast of all major river traffic that was going on. There is something about the design of this park that makes you feel close to the action, even if you happen to be up in the Uecker seats staring off into Kentucky wondering about what it was like during the days of the underground railroad. I also was impressed by how the stands seemed to wrap around the action, letting the fans in for a collective hug of their favorite sport.
9. Yankee Stadium (New York Yankees) - This place is spectacular. I remember the first Yankee Stadium being something to behold and I wasn't sure if I would like its modern replacement. That was until I entered. I was positive that I had found the center of the baseball solar system upon getting my first view inside this grand, new palace. The infamous facade majestically rings the top of the stands that envelope the field dimensions in the old stadium's characteristic skinny horseshoe fashion. While pennants fixed atop the stadium are endlessly tugged and pulled, perhaps symbolizing life in the Bronx, die hard fans fill the 50,000+ seats as nine pinstriped heroes fill the positions on the field. At no other ballpark does baseball seem so royal. At least that is what the angels floating down on rays of sunshine, hand in hand with Ruth, Gehrig, DiMaggio, and Mantle were signing about between innings. Then the ghost of Billy Martin appeared and kicked dirt on the guy responsible for all those obstructed view seats in the left-center bleachers, which brought me back to my sensibilities and the new Yankee Stadium down to number nine.
8. Coors Field (Colorado Rockies) - Fantastic, fun location: (downtown Denver) check; nice-looking, inviting exterior: check; comfortable seats with good sightlines: check; beautiful inner-stadium with gorgeous views of the mountains: check; good beer: check; a robust variety of food choices while still offering some tasty hot dogs: check; $4 seats: check; friendly ushers willing to argue the value of a strong, defensive catcher: check; a place you want to come to again and again and again: check.
7. PETCO Park (San Diego Padres) - This was the biggest surprise of the trip. I had no idea how wonderful the Padres place was. The only thing that I had really heard was that the playing field was too damn big, making it some horrendous pitcher's park. Come on. For decades the old Yankees used to play with a fence in left center that was 457 feet away and center field in Tiger Stadium was 440. Hell, when I was a kid sometimes we didn't even have a fence. The ball just rolled and rolled. Having some hitter's parks and some pitcher's parks is all part of the fun. Remember, baseball is a game and it is supposed to be fun. That's exactly what I loved about PETCO. The fans were super nice. The staff all wore cool, straw hats and were the friendliest bunch in the league. Beyond the outfield stands were sandboxes, grassy knolls, and little baseball fields. The stadium itself was wide open and well-designed, incorporating elements of the local downtown into its structure.
6. Kauffman Stadium (Kansas City Royals) - Can we get a couple playoff appearances for the Royals? This fantastically futuristic stadium deserves more games of October baseball than, um, zero in the past 26 seasons. The Royals' pad is out of this world. It belongs on Triton at the outermost reaches of the sun's gravitational pull, where curve balls stay straight and the circle change is known as the square spare. I love the fountains in the outfield and its modernist design. Serene green hills surround the stadium, using the power of nature to calm, but never extinguish, the frustrations of the long-suffering fans. This season Kansas City hosts the All Star Game. Who wants to go?
... and then there were five ...
5. PNC Park (Pittsburgh Pirates) - If you love baseball, go see a game in Pittsburgh. Seriously, the park is fantastic and the Pirates need your money.
4. Camden Yards (Baltimore Orioles) - A remarkable thing occurred to me on my tour of the 30 stadiums: there are hardly any bad places to watch a baseball game. Thank you Camden Yards. This renaissance of beautiful ballparks started with the Baltimore Orioles and has continued on, inspiring 19 new stadiums since it opened its gates in 1992. However, as it is with many things in life, it is difficult to beat the original. There is an innate allure to Camden Yards. Maybe because it occupies Baltimore's old rail yard or witnessed Cal Ripken's 2,131st straight game, but I like to believe the park's palpable charm is because it is located only two blocks from the birthplace of baseball's most charismatic and beloved ambassador, Babe Ruth.
3. AT&T Park (San Francisco Giants) - What is there not to love about AT&T Park? Aside from its name, nothing. The place is the perfect baseball field. The only reason I don't have it at number one or two is simply because it's missing the history of Fenway and Wrigley. Reminiscent of Wrigley, the scoreboard is erected in straightaway center field and is perfectly placed so as to not block a view of the park's most notable feature, which resides behind right field. Looking towards right, McCovey Cove lies just beyond the playing field, and the two are separated by a 24-foot high brick wall (in honor of Willie Mays' number 24) dotted with arches that allow glimpses of the water and the kayakers waiting patiently for bay-bound home run balls. How cool is that?
2. Fenway Park (Boston Red Sox) - This classic stadium opened in 1912 making it the oldest in the major leagues. I'd like to offer it a happy 100th birthday by ranking it number two. I know there are some people that will quibble with my decision not to place it at the top (most of which are close friends), and their objections are all a part of what makes Fenway so great in the first place. But the obstinate devotion of Boston fans to their beloved Red Sox is only one of the things that helps make this field almost the best. First and foremost I love the history and tradition of the park. It is incredible to me that I can watch a game in the same place where, as a baby-faced 19-year old, George Herman Ruth made his major league debut. Of course another huge part of Fenway's attraction is its design. With the Green Monster looming 37 feet high in left field, Pesky's pole only 302 feet from home down the right field line, and a triangular portion of center field measuring 420 feet from the plate, the eye of a fan quickly decides that asymmetry never looked so appealing. I was familiar with these characteristics and the lore, but something that I hadn't fully expected (although I should have) was the rabid enthusiasm that surrounded and permeated the whole interior and exterior of the ballpark. Walking down Yawkey Way to enter the stadium, through such a festive atmosphere, was a highlight of my time at the second best stadium I visited this summer.
1. Wrigley Field (Chicago Cubs) - There is no question about it. Wrigley Field was, is, and forever will be the best place to watch a baseball game. There is nothing like taking in nine innings at the Friendly Confines. I imagine that it is much like it was fifty years ago. There is no over-sized, electronic, condiment-racing jumbotron sucking the life out of everybody here. Spectators pass the time between innings by chatting with a neighbor, watching the players warm up or examining the ivy covered brick wall that forms the outfield fence. During the game the old school organ (Wrigley Field was the first, and now one of the last, to install and use an organ during the games) cranks out tunes as content fans clad in Sutcliffe jerseys share cracker jack and Old Style, cheering on the Cubs. Another great thing about Wrigley is that Chicago was the last team to install lights and they still play more day games than any other team. They still sell out almost every game regardless of time of day or winning percentage. The sellout crowd then belts out what I consider to be the best tradition in baseball spectatorship: the seventh-inning stretch. In tribute to the late Harry Caray and full of an unbelievable inertia generated by his beneficent spirit, no other stadium comes close to the all out enthusiasm and pure joy produced by Cub fans during the old song. All in all, this is what baseball is, and always should be about. I would think that a place like Wrigley Field makes the baseball gods very happy. So why is it that the Cubs can't win a World Series?
